EDIBLE VOICES

Dine-In or On-The-Go: Dedalus Stowe

Chef Jeremy Wood of Dedalus Stowe knows the value of keeping things close to home.
By | June 21, 2022
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(left) Handy cards posted near many of the wines provide useful information on tasting notes. And Dedalus staff are eager to guide your selections as well; (top right) Jeremy Wood (photo: Nicole Bull); (bottom right) (photo: Nikki Eddy)

Chef Jeremy Wood of Dedalus Stowe knows the value of keeping things close to home. He specializes in creating artisanal charcuterie that takes full advantage of Vermont’s agricultural bounty. And there’s no better time to enjoy this grill- and picnic-ready program than a Vermont summer.

Stop in to either of the Dedalus stores, and you’ll see Jeremy’s sausages, rillettes, paté, terrine, and chicken liver mousse neatly presented next to the cheese counter (natural companion to the house-made charcuterie, of course). Need some crackers to smear that rillette on, or a baguette to grill for that sausage? Dedalus has that, too.

But the real magic lies in the wine pairings. Because every single Dedalus team member is trained to help guests create pairings that bring wine regions to life, showcase centuries-old traditions, and unite people around good wine and food.

“In most of the winegrowing regions we champion,” says Ashley Bryant, who leads the Dedalus marketing team, “it’s common to see paté and salumi made from a neighbor’s pigs on a winemaker’s table. It’s the whole reason we have a charcuterie program—to give context to the wines we carry and show people how great wine can transform ordinary moments into incredible ones.”

Chef Jeremy is on the same page. He sources the pork for all his charcuterie from Pigasus Meats in South Hero. Kelsey and Phelan O’Connor believe in the value of pasture-raised pigs, and in treating their animals humanely. For Chef Jeremy, choosing to buy from neighbors just makes sense. “I really like the fact that we have a relationship with the person who is raising the pigs.”

The Dedalus chef says those neighborly inclinations are informed by his family history. His grandfather, a village butcher in England, has told Chef Jeremy stories about neighbors helping out each other through hard times with inventive butchery and charcuterie recipes. Those stories inspire him to bring a similar neighborly quality, and a hefty dose of tradition, to his products.

In the Dedalus to-go cases, you’ll always find four different sausages, all perfect for summer grilling. Chef Jeremy’s chorizo evokes the subtle smoky spice of Spanish cuisine, and his hot Italian sausage kicks up things with a hint of red pepper and the traditional fennel. Another is inspired by northern Italy and boasts black mustard, sage, and black pepper for seasoning. Last, his Toulouse sausage evokes the French countryside with its combination of pork and duck, seasoned with garlic and nutmeg.

Those Toulouse sausages are incredible with a chilled bottle (or two) of Maxime Magnon’s Carignan. The hot Italian sausage—spicy but not so spicy that it overpowers the wine—is the perfect companion for a bottle of Etna Rosso. For the chorizo, snap up a tin of Galician conserva— some mussels or inky squid— to snack on while you char the smoky, paprika-laden sausages. Start with a bottle of Mencia from Guimaro and move on to a Tempranillo from Goyo Garcia for the main course. And last, for those peppery, herbaceous, northern Italian sausages, swing for something from the same region, such as a juicy Barbera from Piedmont.

But say there’s no grill in sight— you can still enjoy local charcuterie. Dedalus’s perfectly silky chicken liver mousse, rich paté, traditional terrines, and rich pork rillettes come packed in glass jars and are perfect for throwing in your next picnic basket alongside a box of crackers, a bottle of snappy cornichons, a hunk of cheese, and a frosty bottle of rosé.

They have a killer selection of pink bottles from Provence, including a few from Bandol that, paired with those terrines and rillettes, will transport your picnic to the Mediterranean coast. But if you pick up the paté or the mousse, definitely grab a bottle of white Burgundy. It’s a classic regional pairing, one that will make you feel like a local.

Of course, you can always opt for the full experience without the hassle of cleanup and stop by their Stowe location. Every week, Thursday through Monday in the evening, Chef Jeremy will be firing up his grill and preparing their summer-long backyard barbecue menu, featuring local meats and vegetables alongside a curated lineup of Dedalus wines. Be sure to check out the Dedalus website and Instagram for more details.

So whether you opt to stop in for a bite in Stowe, stay at home and fire up the grill, or throw together a picnic and hit the road, you can rest assured that the man behind it is someone who works hard to make sure every single experience you have with Dedalus charcuterie is an incredible one. And paired with Dedalus wines, these products create truly transportive experiences. You won’t be disappointed.

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