Editor's Letter: Issue 28, Winter
We are fortunate to live in a state where vegans and carnivores can live in harmony, nourishing themselves on the bounty of our land. Our fields and gardens—now resting under a thick blanket of snow—provide a rich canvas for a plenitude of grains and produce; our climate supports healthful pastures vital for grassfed livestock.
With this peaceable kingdom in mind, we now celebrate meat. It’s winter after all, the season of roasts and stews, smoked meats and sausages. Time to dig deep into the recesses of our freezers and pull out those packages socked away for weekend braising and slowcooked hearty dishes.
However, according to studies undertaken by the Vermont Farm to Plate network, the demand for Vermont-grown meat typically outstrips supply, and farmers face considerable challenges to increased livestock production including the cost and seasonality of production and access to slaughter. What does that mean for consumers? Practice moderation, eat and shop responsibly, and honor every ounce of the meat we do purchase.
To get us in that mindset, our writers visit with some of the folks who take locally raised meats to the next level. Justin Barrett, creator of Piecemeal Pies in White River Junction, has mastered the British-style meat pie, fi lled with rabbit, beef, pork or lamb. Over in Proctorsville and Quechee, Dan Singleton stocks the butcher case of his family’s eponymous shops with a wide array of carefully selected meats while his dad, Tom Singleton, tends the tantalizing products that emerge from their smokehouse.
And Jed Davis knows a little something about meat. As owner of Burlington’s Farmhouse Group of restaurants, he has established deep connections with some of Vermont’s fi nest growers, proudly off ering everything from juicy burgers and mouthwatering steaks to succulent tacos. Read about his career evolution in our Edible Voices conversation.
We also tapped two dynamic caterers for their favorite chili recipes. Susanna Keefer of Susanna’s Catering in Morrisville offers a beef brisket chili while Sarah Moran of Burlington’s Cloud 9 Caterers suggests one that includes both pork and turkey. Build a potluck around these hearty dishes and you’ll be the star of the show!
And since one cannot live on meat alone, Tracey Medeiros keeps us balanced with sweet potatoes. She shares a recipe for sweet potato pie, and what’s not to like about a dessert based on a veggie?? And to wash down that pie, how about some fresh roasted beans or whole-leaf teas from Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea in Waterbury Center? Learn how Mané and Holly Alves developed their thriving roastery and coffee bar, painted the scarlet hue of a ripe coffee berry!
Lastly, because (almost) nothing is better than curling up with a good book in winter, we review Charcuterie, Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn’s engaging treatise on how to prepare smoked and cured meats at home. If you’ve ever dreamed of venturing down this rabbit hole, run to your bookstore and order a copy right now. Th en hit up your local butcher.
So get ready to indulge your inner carnivore. And as you shop in the months ahead, please strive to support the businesses represented in our publication. Th eir beautiful advertisements in this magazine make this magazine possible.
Here’s to the livestock that graze our pastures and the farmers who tend them!
Maria Buteux Reade | Managing Editor
